Mobile no-start diagnostic at your driveway in 2–4 hours across South Mississippi. Free diagnosis. Flat-rate repairs.
📞 Call Matt now — 601-896-4798 or text MattMatt replies within minutes during service hours.
Turn the key (or push the button) and get absolute silence. No click, no crank, no nothing. Usually points to a completely dead battery, a blown fuse, a bad neutral safety switch, or a broken connection between the battery and starter.
Click-click-click-click — fast and repetitive. That's the starter solenoid engaging and releasing over and over because the battery can't deliver enough amperage to spin the starter motor. Classic sign of a weak or dead battery, or corroded battery terminals.
Engine spins over normally — rrrr rrrr rrrr — but never actually starts. The starter and battery are fine. Problem is fuel or spark: no fuel pressure, a dead crankshaft position sensor, flooded injectors, or a timing issue. Needs a diagnostic, not a jump.
Car was completely normal 12 hours ago. Now nothing. Overnight failure usually means the battery finally gave out (older than 3–4 years), a relay stuck open and drained it, or a door/trunk left cracked with an interior light on. Matt diagnoses before you pay for anything.
| No-start diagnostic on-site | FREE |
| Starter circuit test (solenoid, relay, wiring) | $79 |
| Alternator replacement (parts + labor + travel) | $320 flat |
| Battery replacement (battery + install) | $150 |
| Starter motor replacement | $280 |
Battery dead? Clicked once or twice, then silence?
Battery dead? Start here →Battery light came on too — or it died right after a jump?
It may be the alternator →"Battery died in my driveway at 7am. Matt was there by 8:30, tested the alternator too, replaced the battery on the spot. Cheaper than I expected."
"Check engine light had been on for weeks. Matt ran the diagnostic for $79, explained every code in plain English, fixed the O2 sensor same day."
"Matt showed up right on time, diagnosed the starter in 10 minutes, had the truck running before lunch. Way easier than a shop."
Probably not. Matt comes to you — your driveway, parking lot, or apartment lot. He carries the most common parts on the van. If the repair requires a shop (engine-off sensor swap that needs a lift, for example), he'll tell you exactly that before you decide.
15–25 minutes from the time Matt opens the hood to a confirmed root cause. He tells you what's wrong and what it costs before starting any repair. No guessing, no pressure.
Then it's just the battery. Matt carries Group 35, 65, 75, and 24F batteries on the van. If your size is in stock, he swaps it on the spot. Battery replacement is $150 including the battery and installation. If he doesn't have your size, he diagnoses and gives you options.
Yes. Matt works in any lot with reasonable access — surface lots, garage levels, street parking. He doesn't need a lift for starting-system work. Just mention when you call or text so he brings the right setup.
Usually, yes. Below 20°F, a marginal battery loses up to 35% of its cold-cranking amps. A battery that barely started the car last week might not have enough juice in a hard freeze. But cold also thickens oil, reducing starter motor speed, and can make a bad crank sensor fail intermittently. Matt diagnoses the actual root cause — he won't just swap the battery and hope.
Matt is usually on-site within 2–4 hours. Call or text and he responds personally.